Sally Mu breaks out the best shows from the most political NY Fashion Week ever
With the most-buzzed-about New York Fashion Week A/W17 coming to a close, let’s swot up on biggest stories and sartorial talking points emerged from the run-ways. In a week of fascinating shows in America—from Calvin Klein and Coach 1941 that set the tone for celebrating Americana in colour-blocking, pared-back tailoring, denim and quilting; to multiple designers’ delivering fully politically-charged collections via anti-Trump slogan tees and soundtracks on the catwalks.
As well as revealing US society’s diversity and inclusivity by having older models and models with vitiligo, there was also the most plus-size models in the lineups ever. There’s certainly much to applaud this season.
“Looking over the fashion week in New York it has certainly been the most unapologetically patriotic NY fashion season ever”
Of course, Fashion Week in the US hasn’t shied away from the politics after the election and the on-going protests against Trump. Many labels addressed current politics with the stand out moment at Public School when several models donned red baseball caps and crop tops that read “Make America New York” hitting the runway, which was a play on Trump’s infamous “MAGA” campaign hats during election-season and referenced New York’s society values of tolerance, diversity and inclusivity. The label’s designer also made a more explicit political statement by having models wear jackets declaring “We need leaders” as well as choosing the “Your Land Is Your Land ” as a soundtrack to rebel against Trump.
Other changes on the runway included Michael Kors making history by having plus-size icon Ashley Graham and ‘90s supermodel Carolyn Murphy walking their run-way, promoting the brand’s tolerance of size and age. Looking over the fashion week in New York it has certainly been the most unapologetically patriotic NY fashion season ever.
Dior’s former creative director Raf Simons debuted his first and most anticipated Calvin Klein collection, featuring a mix of Americana elements: structured pants and suit shirts in bold stars-and-stripes that were popping up all over the scene, forever-a-classic double denim and pantsuits that had more relaxed and nonchalant cuts. Through his magic touch he paid tribute to American work wear, bringing in the ul-tra-chic metal-tipped cowboy boots back in vogue. At the same time, Raf made a pointed political statement by playing David Bowie “This Is Not America” in the showroom showing the echoing political statement for the American brand.
At Coach 1941, design maestro Stuart Vevers channeled NYC and the Great Plains by showcasing American Prairie–inspired prints both on earthy-toned, quilted puffer jackets and shearling outerwear. Both are surprisingly wearable and practical items that will shake up our autumn wardrobe. Moreover, we’re crushing on those con-versation-starting layered mini handbags covered in playful cartoon ducks, they’re available in many fun shades and are so adorable, adding a youthful and modern appeal to the label.